Celine mixes brass hardware based on sailing clothing fastenings with a shearling…a great juxtaposition between hard and soft and active and luxurious. image by lifeintravel
kvadrat soft cells: one of the new uses of textiles in commercial enviroments used for acoustic purposes. The colour choices include natural tones and work will with more natural finishes that have become fashionable
image via kvadrat
Dries van Noten’s FW 2011 collection used prints inspired by the ballet russes and used shearlings and thick woven wools that brought to mind astrakan a la Omar Sharif in Anna Karenina
image via style.com
mary katranzou ss2010′s collection featured intricate digitally printing fabrics that she used for her signature short dresses. Intricately constructed, the prints’ designs were used to accentuate the intricate cut of the piece, transforming a shift into something more three dimensional
Lidewij Eldekoort talking textiles in Asia
Check out Lidewij Edelkoort talking about the future of textiles in this Domus video
This is the first of a new series of articles about trends that influence fashion and design.
I want to talk about textiles. Once the preserve of what I call ‘high’(1) interior decorating, textiles are now being embraced by the individual.
The trend expert,Lidewij Edelkoort, in her keynote address, speaking at Istanbul Design Week held last week, talked about how textiles, which have been vanishing from our interiors since 1970s, are making a comeback. She said, ”Today the situation is different: we are emotionally unstable, in political chaos and experiencing ecological catastrophes. We find ourself in a bad space and the current pessimism notably from our governments doesn’t help us overcome our fear of the future. In reaction to our virtual existence we will need more real emotions…, tactility and dimension to compensate for the flat screens in our lives to give pleasure to our fingers.
This seems to be why many designers have recently started to reinvent textiles with often handmade but highly technical processes.
If we take this a little bit further, two trends emerge: the environmentally conscious consumer is choosing a handcrafted, non-industrial look to wear on their bodies and in their homes. Even commercial spaces, such as shops and offices, are taking this trend on.
The second trend is to use natural textures such as fur, leather, clay and wood, revising them in new ways, adding a bit of a colour ‘pop’ to make it contemporary. Once the preserve of outdoor mountaineers and hikers, textures like shearling and rough wools are hitting the catwalks and design stores. Take a look at Celine, Marni ( who have been doing this for a while) and Dries van Noten this season. Even American designers, such as Peter Som, are in on the trend.
There are also a plethora of designers who use textile to augment their designs, Mary Krantazou and Erdem being two such designers. The patterns and designs on fabrics such as silks and linens are a feature of their designs and make their work instantly recognisable. The prints’ designs are echoed in the cut and construction of the clothing, making a flat weave seem almost three dimensional.
In my furniture designs this season, I have mixed rough linens and weaves with soft velvets in natural tone but with accents of bright colour. Leathers and shearling will also feature. The fabrics will be draped and cut into interesting shapes that echo the flat patterns. I’ll share photos of my designs soon.
(1) By ‘high’ interior decorating, I mean hiring a decorator to pull together a look that is based on a textile / colour choice, rather than shape, style or texture. I’ve always though of this as a bit of a design cop out, but that’s just my opinion! (most people love it)
11 October 2011